Copy of In Italy’s Puglia, Detours Become Destinations, and Days Morph Into Pure Magic

It’s tough when your days begin with a decision. Do we drive north toward the Adriatic or south toward the Ionian Sea? Shall we have pranzo (lunch) in a hill town or along the shore? And what marvels await us along the way? This was how our days began at the Bar Colucci in the piazza of the quiet town of Crispiano in the heart of Puglia.

It didn’t take long for Bar Colucci to become command central, the hub of our exploratory wheel. We liked to start our days there, sipping espresso, watching women, chatting with friends until it was time for lunch, the local free-ranging dogs going in and out, and clusters of old men, who’d been friends since boyhood, shouting about a soccer match.